When I arrived at abc kitchens at 7pm on a Tuesday evening, there was a sizeable queue of stylish guests patiently waiting to enter. It was hardly surprising; the restaurant, helmed by the illustrious Jean-Georges Vongerichten, had only recently opened its doors, yet its reputation had already sparked considerable excitement amongst those in the know. Before I knew it, the flawlessly hospitable staff ushered visitors to their tables, all of whom I noticed admiring the décor and arresting artworks by Damien Hirst that grace the modern space.
Vongerichten, an award-winning French chef and celebrated cookbook author, boasts an impressive portfolio featuring over 25 restaurants in the United States, alongside more than a dozen esteemed establishments across the globe. His flagship Jean-Georges in New York City is adorned with two Michelin stars, and many of his other venues have received numerous prestigious accolades. abc kitchens stands as the exclusive UK outpost of Vongerichten’s renowned New York trilogy — abc kitchen, abcV, and abc cocina. Each restaurant presents a distinct culinary narrative, with abc kitchens in London’s The Emory hotel ingeniously merging the essence of all three, prominently highlighting a plant-focused and hyper-seasonal menu; a delightful prospect for a vegan such as myself.
Vongerichten’s culinary philosophy abandons traditional meat stocks and creams, opting instead for a symphony of intense flavours and textures derived from vibrant vegetable juices, tantalising fruit essences, delicate broths, and zesty herbal vinaigrettes. Among the chef’s innovative, plant-centric offerings, don’t miss the heirloom beet carpaccio, the English pea guacamole accompanied by warm, crunchy tortillas, or the mushroom and walnut Bolognese. The pretzel-crusted calamari and crackling fried herb-fed chicken were standouts for my dinner date. Save room for dessert and try the red berry soup with lemon verbena and olive oil sorbet — a delight that beckons with a promise of surprise.
The cocktail list is just as inviting (hello, turmeric mojito), with unique concoctions spiked with house-blended botanicals and punchy essences cleverly complimenting the gastronomic delights. Wine enthusiasts will be in paradise thanks to an extensive 41-page vino menu.
With a strong emphasis on fine cuisine and impeccable service, it’s no wonder abc kitchens finds its home within a Maybourne hotel (the luxury group renowned for Claridge’s, The Connaught and The Berkeley). It’s the perfect spot for a date night but also lends itself to sophisticated soirees with friends, evident by the mixed array of guests that were blissfully enjoying their evening during my visit.
Sleek, modern and undeniably unpretentious, abc kitchens emerges as a must-visit destination in its own right, and I, for one, can’t wait to return for another taste of Vongerichten’s heavenly English pea guacamole.
Images courtesy of The Emory
