Possessing an extraordinary ability to transport its wearer back to specific moments in time, fragrance wields an unparalleled power over our emotions – a fact that perfumer Alexis Dadier is no stranger to.
A formidable figure in the realm of haute perfumery, Dadier embarked upon his illustrious career in the early ’90s as a product manager at Dior Parfums. It was within those hallowed halls that he unearthed a profound passion for the intricate art of scent creation. In 1998, he made the seminal decision to relocate to Grasse, the revered epicentre of perfume artistry, to further hone his craft. Drawing inspiration from the philosophy of orchestrating fragrances with the precision of an architect, Dadier developed a signature style that masterfully marries deep intuition with technical expertise, resulting in olfactory masterpieces that resonate profoundly with fragrance connoisseurs across the globe.
By 2010, Dadier had ascended to the prestigious role of senior perfumer, where he played a pivotal part in the creation of storied scents for luxury houses such as Valentino, Givenchy, Bottega Veneta and Chloé. His oeuvre is characterised by an exquisite equilibrium between tradition and innovation, solidifying his reputation as a sought-after luminary within the fragrance world. In 2019, he joined the esteemed Robertet team in Paris, where his unwavering commitment to the utilisation of natural raw materials continues to deeply influence his creations. Among his most notable compositions are the Off-White fragrance, Solution No. 1, Valentino Uomo Acqua, Chloé Rose Naturelle Intense and Jo Malone’s Fig & Lotus Flower.
And so, in a move that comes as no surprise, distinguished Italian fragrance house Acqua di Parma has collaborated with Dadier to work on one of its most significant ventures to date – the reimagining of its very first fragrance, Colonia, an iconic scent with more than a century-long legacy. Created by founder Carlo Magnani in 1916, in an unprecedented first, the hallmark fragrance has been ingeniously reinterpreted into an eau de parfum through a contemporary lens. Dream Weddings had the honour of speaking with Alexis Dadier to discuss the rebirth of an icon…
Reinterpreting such an iconic fragrance must have been an incredible project to partake in. What did it mean to you? It felt like a great responsibility. I didn’t want to alienate the loyal consumers of the original Colonia by creating a fragrance that wouldn’t fit their habits and tastes. At the same time, I wanted to appeal to new consumers, especially younger ones. Finding a balance between respecting Colonia’s legacy and making it contemporary was both a challenge and an honour.
How would you describe the original Colonia? The original Colonia is rooted in tradition. It has a distinctly fresh and elegant profile characterised by bright citrus notes, representing the Italian spirit with essential oils sourced from Italy. Colonia has an aromatic heart dominated by rosemary and a subtle woody base with a hint of balsamic freshness.
And the new Colonia Il Profumo? Colonia Il Profumo stays true to its roots while elevating the contrasts for a more intense and contemporary profile that is richer, with longevity and a more enduring sillage. The citrus notes are brighter – they are more vibrant and juicy. The floral heart is more pronounced and sophisticated, though not overwhelming. The woody base uses advanced materials to add depth and refinement. Overall, it remains Colonia but with a contemporary twist that feels more colourful, clean and full of life. It bridges the past and present, embracing modern trends in perfumery. It’s a celebration of over a century of Italian artistry and craftsmanship, reimagined for a new era.
You describe Colonia Il Profumo as a contemporary interpretation of the original Colonia fragrance. How did you create a modern version of the iconic scent in terms of composition and reformulation? The process began by meticulously analysing the original Colonia. I identified key facets that defined its signature but also noted elements that felt traditional, which gave a retro impression. I removed these retro facets with a delicate touch while preserving the original fragrance’s soul. The addition of fractionated ylang-ylang adds a crisp, floral brightness without disrupting the iconic scent’s DNA. I also introduced contemporary woods to give the fragrance more depth and intensity. I wanted the new version to feel bold and luminous while honouring its legacy.
Can you explain what fractionated ylang-ylang is and why you chose it? Fractionation is a distillation process that isolates specific parts of an essential oil, removing facets that might be overpowering or undesirable. Traditional ylang-ylang oil contains medicinal notes, which can make it difficult to use in large amounts. Through fractionation, these elements are removed, leaving behind a lighter, cleaner and more ethereal floral character. I chose fractionated ylang-ylang specifically for two key reasons. Firstly, it enhances the citrus notes, adding warmth and a radiant quality to the fragrance. Secondly, and most importantly, it supports the citrus top notes, preventing them from fading too quickly. This allows the luminous freshness of the citrus to linger beautifully throughout the wear of the fragrance, giving Colonia Il Profumo a more enduring vibrancy.
Interesting. Is it common to use ylang-ylang in perfumery to amplify a fragrance, or was this decision unique? Great question. It’s not common to use ylang-ylang in this way. Traditional ylang-ylang is too strong for this type of fragrance. However, the fractionated version allowed me to explore new possibilities. It was a unique choice to enhance the citrus notes and add brightness as I mentioned, while maintaining the overall elegance and crispness of Colonia Il Profumo. This innovative use of ylang-ylang is quite rare and special.
Can you walk us through the olfactory pyramid of Colonia Il Profumo? Certainly. Its top notes are Italian bergamot, blood orange and grapefruit. These create a sparkling, juicy, and vibrant opening that immediately captures attention. At the heart lies rosemary, orange blossom absolute and fractionated ylang-ylang. These aromatic and floral notes bridge tradition and modernity. And the base notes are fractionated patchouli and vetiver oil. These refined materials provide a clean base, prolonging the uplifting top notes and enhancing depth.
It truly is a beautiful scent. How long did it take to develop Colonia Il Profumo? Thank you. We worked through 119 trials to perfect the balance. It was important to enhance the contrasts and achieve harmony while ensuring the fragrance retained its iconic Colonia identity. Our mission was to craft a new version that evokes a sense of radiant elegance and modern sophistication. It’s about capturing the essence of La Dolce Vita – the vibrant energy and effortless charm of Italian life.
Finally, I’d love to know what is most important to you when creating a fragrance? For me, it’s essential to tell a story. Every perfume begins with a clear idea, often inspired by imagery, emotions or memories. For Colonia Il Profumo, I drew from my travels in Italy and the country’s unique art of living – its grace, warmth and beauty. It’s also about sensory experiences, like enjoying a perfect breakfast in a stunning Italian hotel, where every detail feels meaningful. These moments stay with you and become a part of the creative process. Once I have a precise vision, I focus on mastering the formulation to bring the story to life.
Images courtesy of Acqua di Parma
