“Travelling and discovery are two of the most invaluable joys of my life, but I must confess that my favourite journeys are often those that lead me to quiet, remote destinations,” Renaud Salmon revealed, as we sat together on a mountain in Oman’s Jebel Akhdar range. That mindset inspired the Belgian creative to hike to the nation’s summit, resulting in an epochal voyage that proved as spiritually enriching as it was visually captivating. It also marked a pivotal moment: the beginning of the end for Amouage’s illustrious Odyssey Collection.
Salmon’s unwavering passion for fragrance is spellbinding. “It’s something you feel deep inside,” he articulates. I agree; however, until I witnessed first-hand the artistry of high perfumery as a guest of Amouage, I believed it was impossible to fall any deeper in love with the power of perfume. I was mistaken. The way Salmon eloquently discusses nature, raw ingredients, emotion and human connection in a profoundly poetic fashion is unmatched. It is this — coupled with his insatiable curiosity and instinct for innovation — that has catapulted the visionary into the forefront of shaping and pushing the boundaries of the olfactory landscape.
Representing the final chapter of Amouage’s Odyssey Collection are two exquisite fragrances: Decision and Existence. Together, these new additions serve to complete the house’s hypnotic twelve-fragrance ensemble. Since its inception in 2020, the evolving Odyssey series has not only explored the rich geographical tapestry of the diverse Omani landscape but has also ventured into more metaphysical notions of travel. Commencing with the poignant fragrances Meander, Ashore, Crimson Rocks and Enclave, Odyssey progressed through Boundless, Material, Lineage, Search, Guidance and Purpose – each garnering acclaim among fragrance connoisseurs around the globe. Now, with Decision and Existence, this remarkable collection reaches its conclusion.
Inspired by Salmon’s solo hike to Jebel Shams — the highest point in Oman, rising to around 3,000 metres — Decision and Existence are crafted with opposing emotional energies: one charged with tension and forward motion, the other steeped in reflection and stillness.
“When I arrived at the base of the mountain and started walking, something caught my eye. Across the terrain I saw what looked like conifers, but up close they were juniper trees whose branches were twisted into unusual shapes,” Salmon recalls.
Junipers are among the most ancient and revered species in this part of Oman, some of which are survivors of the electrical storms that frequently occur in the region. When struck by lightning, the intense heat turns their sap into steam, resulting in the splitting and subsequent fossilising of the bark. While many trees perish during this fierce ordeal, a few manage to recover and live on – transformed, but very much alive. According to local legend, these resilient trees take on a supernatural quality.
This encounter at the foot of Jebel Shams became the genesis of Decision, imagined as an olfactory bolt of lightning. Crafted in collaboration with perfumer Quentin Bisch, “Decision is extraordinarily piercing — it banishes the darkness of uncertainty and ushers in direction.” This striking representation is achieved through a robust combination of bergamot, juniper berries, frankincense and myrrh. “The former lends a cool, woody quality — echoing the petrified bark of the trees — while the latter projects a flinty, citrusy and mineralic sparkle. The luminosity of the trio is arresting and inescapable, compelling all who encounter it to take note of its might,” Salmon explains.
“After this unequivocal beginning, the light appears to spread further, aided by the all-pervasive, gleaming effect of Atlas cedarwood. When paired with a deeply grounding, almost surprisingly warm vanilla base, the wood note captures the liberating effect of acceptance.”
Salmon goes on to explain his desire to create a fragrance that would tell an important story about life: “Sometimes in life you can be struck by lightning and encounter situations beyond your control,” he says. “It might be losing a loved one or confronting an unexpected illness. It is then ultimately your decision to decide if you are going to give up, or if you are going to keep growing like those trees.”
As Salmon continued toward the summit, clouds thickened until the terrestrial panorama was entirely concealed. This moment marked the second pivotal phase of his solitary journey — becoming the inspiration for Existence. Surrounding him were only the vast expanse of sky above, a shroud of clouds below and the sparse remnants of the rugged mountaintops that encircled him. “When I reached the top, it felt as though I was standing on a tiny island with a sea of clouds around me,” Salmon recalls. “It reminded me of a very famous painting that sparked the Romantic movement, The Wanderer above the Sea of Fog, by German artist Caspar David Friedrich. That painting asks a very simple question about the notion of existence. In that moment I knew I was connected to the earth, and yet I also felt as though I was floating. The disorientation was profound, serene and liberating. It was an experience I struggle to put into words.”
If Decision is a beam of enlightenment, Existence is defined by the absence of lines, edges or angles — a space where the concept of material territories is non-existent. This evocation of endlessness is achieved primarily through an exquisite lily of the valley note. “Bisch fashioned it into an entity that is suitably delicate and fragile, yet remarkably expansive thanks to the addition of tender frankincense. The frankincense blurs the hyper-reality of the lily of the valley.”
As the fragrance evolves, its all-encompassing embrace of the infinite becomes ever more pronounced. “An aldehyde note enhances the impression of pristine whiteness; a rose facet introduces a nuance of vitality, and the use of benzoin in the base conveys the idea that this ethereal landscape is firmly rooted to the complicated reality of Earth.”
“As though placing us in the position of the figure in Friedrich’s The Wanderer above the Sea of Fog painting, Existence is suspended within life itself. It is both out of time and entirely at one with it. In my mind, this fragrance is literally like a blanket of clouds. It possesses an extraordinary diffusive quality that spreads like a sea of fog. The name, Existence, is derived from the very essence of existing. Bright, sincere and emotive, Existence captures the vastness of the infinite, imbued with a life-affirming optimism.”
Together, these extraordinary fragrances draw the Odyssey Collection to a haunting close. “The Odyssey Collection explores the essence of life. It serves as a reflection of the different stages we pass through. Decision is sharp and purposeful and moves with direction. It poses the question of whether we choose to grow and survive or to surrender. Existence is more contemplative; it embodies texture and stillness. It invites reflection on the life we’ve lived and encourages us to ask, ‘What did I accomplish?’”
Salmon has once again pushed the boundaries of the art of perfumery, purposefully steering Amouage’s narrative with pure emotion and unwavering creativity, while masterfully honouring the opulent heritage of the haute perfume house. Through these latest scents, one certainty remains: the chief creative officer possesses a remarkable talent for storytelling — encapsulating a message in a bottle with unmistakable grace.
Whatever comes next for Amouage, anticipation is assured, and a sensorial experience is guaranteed.
Images courtesy of Amouage
