Since its inception in 1968, the illustrious house of Diptyque has ceaselessly sought inspiration from the marvels of nature — a source of beauty and poetry both enduring and transcendent. From the wildness of untamed landscapes to the meticulously curated gardens shaped by human ingenuity, Diptyque pays homage to the ethereal qualities inherent in each natural element, breathing life and emotion into its olfactory universe through the creation of exquisite scents.
With Les Essences de Diptyque, the luxury fragrance brand embarks upon a new chapter. This remarkable collection unveils five eau de parfums, each crafted in veneration of nature’s invaluable treasures — those enchanting entities that elude human comprehension in their aromatic essence: coral, mother of pearl, bark, water lily, and the crystalline formations known as the desert rose. This innovative venture unites the full spectrum of creativity and olfactory expertise possessed by the house’s perfumers, articulating through fragrance the profound emotions and sensations inspired by the natural wonders that ignite Diptyque’s imagination.
Since the fragrance house launched, it has honoured its collaborations between multiple creatives, namely the nose and the hand. Initially, it was through the expertise of master perfumers that the trio of Diptyque’s founders could immortalise their memories of nature and travel within exquisite scents. These founders further adorned their creations with intricate illustrations and graphic designs, which they termed “olfactory landscapes.” This instinctive and nuanced aesthetic, marked by a distinctively visual sensibility, remains pivotal to the ethos of Diptyque, now more than sixty years on, embracing a boundless freedom in both tone and conceptualisation.
Les Essences de Diptyque continues the rich tradition of creativity, melding the artistry of the perfumer with that of the draughtsman to present compositions that are as visually compelling as they are in smell, ensnaring both the imagination and the senses. For its latest project, Diptyque enlisted the talents of several long-standing friends, all distinguished figures within the realm of perfumery: Fabrice Pellegrin, Alexandra Carlin, Nathalie Cetto, and Olivier Pescheux. Each was afforded creative freedom to conceive an olfactory composition that resonated with the treasures inherent in nature. They exercised meticulous diligence in their selection of ingredients, invariably opting for materials that possess extraordinary olfactory characteristics. The provenance and traceability of each natural raw material is assured, exemplifying Diptyque’s unwavering dedication to excellence across all dimensions.
In harmony with the esteemed tradition of the maison, the distinguished Irish artist Nigel Peake has orchestrated visual compositions that delicately balance the realms of realism and fantasy. His creations invite us to explore the poetic essence of nature, with each detail unveiling the enchantment of the world that envelops us, compelling the imagination to delve deeply into the brands lyrical spirit.
Employing the nuanced tonalities of watercolor on paper, Peake has rendered interpretations of the natural elements that inspired this collection with remarkable finesse. These elements arise in both subtle shades and monochromatic forms, beautifully brought forth under the artist’s skilled hand. The intricate black line work that adorns each bottle serves as a striking contrast to the soft pastel hues of the watercolor, presenting a refined and more abstract portrayal intricately traced on the glass in relief. These drawings distill each featured element to its most fundamental essence, revealing their purest expressions.
The new bottle design draws inspiration from the original, while infusing it with a contemporary sensibility. The glass is elegantly engraved, allowing Diptyque’s iconic oval emblem to serve as a portal to the exquisite Nigel Peake illustration gracing the back. Each bottle is adorned with a spherical aluminum stopper, creating a striking juxtaposition between the opaque black and the crystalline clarity of the glass, beautifully complementing the relief-traced decorative design on the exterior. This interplay of materials and forms elevates the perfume within, rendering it an embodiment of simplicity married with sophistication. In crafting this remarkable new artifact, Diptyque has meticulously prioritised eco-conscious practices. The bottle is designed for endless refillability and constructed from recyclable materials; the accompanying box is lightweight, enhanced by a coloured pouch that allows users to carry and cherish their fragrance wherever their journeys may lead.
CORAIL OSCURO, by Alexandra Carlin
Star ingredient: Mandarin.
Cultivated in Madagascar by local communities, mandarin peel is processed in the traditional way, using no mechanical methods to obtain this unique essence, which is entirely traceable, biodegradable and renewable.
Within the enchanting Venetian Lagoon, where shadows and light intricately intertwine to craft a mesmerising tableau, vast stretches of coral adorn the underwater realm in a splendid mantle of vermilion. The scarlet branches of these breathtaking subaqueous formations undulate gently, mimicking the fluidity of the currents that embrace them. This scene conjures the very spirit of Venice — a city cherished by Diptyque’s founders, often serving as the inspirational muse for expeditions to distant shores.
Taking its name from the striking contrast between the obscurity of the seabed and the vivid hues of the resident coral, Corail Oscuro draws from the chiaroscuro technique revered by Renaissance luminaries such as Caravaggio and Titian. This exquisite fragrance, masterfully crafted by perfumer Alexandra Carlin, marries the sumptuous essence of rose bourbon absolute with the crystalline radiance of mandarin, all enriched by a warm, saline, mineral accord designed to encapsulate the quintessence of this marine wonder.
“I wanted my work to suggest salinity, and the fiery red colour of a coral garden. Plus, the undulations of a stony mineral flower suspended between sunlit skies and the darkness of the sea.”
On the white card of the sleeve, the bright red coral appears in a delicate watercolour rendition by Nigel Peake, resembling a tree spreading out over the bed of the lagoon, sheltering and protecting the marine fauna.
LUNAMARIS, by Fabrice Pellegrin
Star ingredient: Rockrose.
This rockrose, which local growers in Andalusia have now been cultivating for over 30 years, follows a sustainable harvest cycle in harmony with nature’s own. Fields are left to lie fallow for several years, giving the soil time to replenish its stock of cistus shrubs naturally. The pickers avoid harvesting from the shorter branches, allowing for regrowth and promoting a sustainable approach to farming and harvesting.
Mother of pearl emerges from the concealed alcoves within the shells of select mollusks. Its enchanting allure is derived from a captivating radiance and striking iridescence. Epitomising purity and sophistication, it offers a rewarding experience for those who take the time to appreciate its pearlescent reflections. The name “Lunamaris” pays homage to mother of pearl, evocative of the delicate shimmer reminiscent of the moon’s reflection upon the tranquil waters of the sea. Its fragrance, envisioned by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin, harmoniously melds the luminous gentleness of rockrose with the piquant nuances of pink peppercorn, akin to hues dancing across an iridescent canvas. Subtle notes of incense evoke both a mineral clarity and a cocooning warmth, culminating in a perfume that is both potent and understated.
“I wanted to interpret in a perfume the iridescent nuances of mother of pearl. The signature comprises a blend of raw materials selected to render this visual effect in olfactory terms. In this fragrance, each ingredient has its proper place, creating a radiant signature with silky subtleties. Pink peppercorn with its vibrant effects and spicy colours, the pure, resinous note of in- cense and the amber warmth of rockrose.”
The profusion of brushstrokes in the drawing by Nigel Peake evokes the soft, subtle depths of mother of pearl. The combina- tion of pastel hues, from sky blue to a dark purple mauve, reflects that iridescence, inviting us to linger in daydreams.
BOIS CORSÉ, by Nathalie Cetto and Olivier Pescheux
Star ingredient: Sandalwood.
Santalum spicatum, the Australian sandalwood, grows on lands inhabited by Aboriginal communities and is cultivated in partnership with a foundation that protects their interests. Each year, new trees are planted to ensure the regeneration of this age-old resource. The income derived from its production is used for the active management of the natural ecosystem.
Amidst the meandering trails of the forest, bark stands as the steadfast guardian, embracing trees in its gentle hold, safeguarding the vulnerable core from the relentless march of time and the caprices of nature. Bois Corsé pays homage to this vital encasement, which exemplifies the strength and resilience inherent in nature. The name itself, inspired by the robust essence of bark and the rich flavours of coffee, conjures an image of profound character.
Crafted by the talented Nathalie Cetto and Olivier Pescheux, this fragrance serves as an invitation to journey into the depths of the forest and uncover its hidden pathways. It artfully combines the enveloping softness of tonka bean with the silken fluidity of sandalwood essence, creating a woody aroma that possesses unparalleled richness. The composition is further enhanced by notes of black coffee, imbuing a bitter quality swathed in smoothness, echoing the texture of living bark.
“For Bois Corsé, I drew inspiration from the beauty of nature at its most unvarnished. I played on the texture of wood, and particularly the roughness of bark, so pleasant to the touch despite its irregularities and randomness.” Nathalie Cetto
The irregular shapes on the white card of the box interact to form a whole and create the impression of a bark-covered tree. Using warm brown tonalities, Nigel Peake lets us savour the tactile and visual aspects of rugged bark.
LILYPHÉA, by Nathalie Cetto and Olivier Pescheux
Star ingredient: Vanilla.
Sourced responsibly and Eco-certified, this Madagascan vanilla is entirely traceable, with direct access to the growers. Programmes have been set up to offer advice on planting and drying, and to pro- mote rural development in the villages, covering a variety of aspects such as education and food security.
Lilyphéa, much like an olfactory interpretation of an impressionist masterpiece, beautifully embodies the ethereal poetry of water lilies — those splendid natural marvels that rise gracefully from the serene depths of a tranquil pond, inviting admiration while allowing one to relish in their gentle, delicate texture. Drawing inspiration from Claude Monet’s esteemed Water Lilies series, this fragrance evokes the enchanting ballet of flowers as they float effortlessly upon glistening waters. Crafted by Nathalie Cetto and Olivier Pescheux, the composition elegantly intertwines the vibrant zest of cardamom and the freshness of violet leaves with the luminous softness of Madagascan vanilla.
“In Lilyphéa, I played on the leaf of the water lily. The green of these leaves is at once crisp, lively, and smooth, but also also mellow, fleshy, and brimming with sap. To keep the energy of this green scent while also introducing a relaxing feel, I contrasted the heady aspect of essence of galbanum with the sap-like qualities of violet leaf, then blended in the gentle warmth of Madagascan vanilla absolute.” Nathalie Cetto
The sleeve, decorated with a water lily drawing created in blue- green shades by Nigel Peake, invites us to let our poetic instincts roam free.
ROSE ROCHE, by Fabrice Pellegrin
Star ingredient: Lemon.
Sourced from private groves known in Italy as “little gardens”, the Sicilian and Calabrian lemons are rooted both in an Italian family tradition and in the passing of time. These hand-picked fruits, spurned by many on account of their external irregularities, are instead used for their olfactory qualities. Benefiting from the volcanic environment in which they grow, they have developed certain unique facets.
The vast, open expanses of the desert cradle the exquisite crystal formation known as the desert rose, each petal a resplendent testament to the duality of nature’s strength and fragility. Fabrice Pellegrin envisioned Rose Roche as an essence that elegantly intertwines the organic with the mineral. With its aromatic notes reminiscent of the Orient, this captivating fragrance presents a distinctive interpretation of the rose — ethereal, as if sculpted by the gentle caress of the wind. Luminous, finely crafted notes of lemon illuminate the petals of the centifolia rose, whilst the mineral depth of patchouli enriches the composition, creating an entrancing silage akin to ephemeral traces wafting through the air as they dance across the dunes.
“This creation was inspired by the winds that shape the desert sands with surprising precision over the course of time. My aim was to evoke the elemental heat of the desert winds through a perfume crafted to recall the warm, mineral feel of grains of sand. I sculpted this floral rose fragrance entirely out of contrast between the bright, luminous qualities of citrus fruits and the deep, textured notes of patchouli.”
The delicate strokes of the Nigel Peake watercolour on the sleeve are expressed in infinite gradations of rosy, sandy hues that conjure up the beauty and elegance of the desert.
The five fragrances that create Les Essences de Diptyque offer an enchanting experience, allowing one to revel in the beauty and scents of a natural world situated at the intersection of reality and dreams.
Images courtesy of Diptyque
